Thursday, November 1, 2012

A Vineyard, a Town, & a Garden

Today is All Saints' Day, a national holiday here in Italy, which means this is one of my first days off in quite some time.  I must admit that among all of my homework and traveling I've been a bit unmotivated to keep up with this blog, but I'll try to amend my absence with this post.  Since my last post I've visited Greve in Chianti, San Gimignano, the Boboli Gardens in Florence, Siena, and Torino with my school and each trip had a distinct flavor that is difficult to convey with words, but I'll try my hardest.  To give every excursion justice, I'm going to only talk about the first three in this post, and save Siena and Torino for the next.



Greve in Chianti



Greve is a pretty small town in Chianti and within walking distance is a villa/vineyard owned by Count Niccolò Capponi, who is by far one of the biggest characters I've ever met.  A continuous stream of inappropriate sarcastic (or overly blunt) statements, which I personally found hilarious (whether I was laughing with him or at him varied).  My classmates on the other hand thought he was a bit too strange and pompous for their liking.  I must admit there were times when it was obvious he had repeated certain jokes or stories, which was confirmed by Giorgio, an Italian student, who has been going on these same trips with the program for the past few years.  Overall, I think the count is a cross between the professor from The Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe and Gilderoy Lockhart from the Harry Potter series.  Either way he kept me interested.



When we got there the Count gave us a tour of the wine cellars, rooms with drying grapes, and a garden on the property.  We had a short wine tasting during the tour with two or three different wines, and what I thought was very impressive was the size of the barrels (shown on the left).  The room with the grapes was amazing because  they were starting to smell of fermentation.  It was similar to walking in an apple orchard will the fallen apples.





Lunch was simple, delicious, and classical Italian.  Tuscan bread (unsalted white bread), a plate of meats, olives, pickled peppers, artichokes, and what I think were small cooked tomatoes filled with tuna.  For dessert we had a choice between blueberry or apricot tarts. Yum.  After lunch we walked into town, and even though it was drizzling the landscape was gorgeous, with lots of fog rising out of the hills. 



San Gimignano




Our History & Anthropology class
The trip to San Gimignano was for my History and Anthropology class and this was my first trip without the entire group.  San Gimignano is a very well preserved, yet still functioning, medieval city that is characterized by their multiple stone towers.  During our visit we went to the town hall, Torre Grossa, which has the largest tower in San Gimignano.  Climbing to the top was one of the scariest things I’ve done because after climbing multiple levels of see-through metal stairs, you have to individually climb what can either be classified as the smallest, most inclined stairs ever, or a slightly reclined ladder.  Holy smokes it was interesting, but definitely worth it because the view from the top was so unbelievably beautiful.  It was picturesque.  Truly, it was like looking at the reality of what I had always imagined Tuscany to look like.  

View from the tower. Town square below with old water well.
After lunch we visited a beautiful little church with amazingly intact frescoes, but unfortunately I don't remember the name.  Then we went to a museum about the history of torture devices, with the original instruments on display.  This was slightly disturbing, but also very interesting, which I think made up for the occasional gag reflexes.  The last place we went to was a small museum that had a miniature sized replica of San Gimignano, which reminded me of the movie Beetlejuice.



The Boboli Gardens






My friend Emma and I ventured across the Arno to visit the Boboli Gardens after school one day.  SLC Florence provides every student with a museum pass that lets you gain access to a wide selection of museums in Florence for free.  Sweet deal, right?!  Sorry, way too excited.  Anyways, the Boboli Gardens are behind the Palazzo Pitti, which is essentially on the same street as the Ponte Vecchio.  It took us a little while to figure out where to get the entry tickets, and that this place was different than the actual entrance, but when we finally arrived it was incredible.  The day was unusually hot, which made it a bit uncomfortable because we had our heavy backpacks with us, but it was beautiful nonetheless.  When we got to the very top of the hill we could see most of Florence.  I imagine the view was even better when the trees were smaller.












Tomorrow my Italian class is flying to Catania, Sicily for the weekend to check out the university, so I will definitely take a lot of pictures and give a full report.  The post on the trips to Siena and Torino is coming soon! Arrivederci!


                                                            - CAB

Thursday, October 4, 2012

The Homestay: Part 1

As some of you may know, part of the SLC Florence program is to have the students live with a host family.  This part of the program was a major factor in my decision for study abroad because many programs have the students living together.  Most of my school friends on other study abroad programs are doing just this and they seem to be enjoying themselves, but if a program is academically appealing and you'd be living with a host family, I strongly recommend it!  Here are a couple reasons why...
  1. Cultural immersion.  Instead of merely experiencing a city from an outsiders perspective, living with a host family is giving me the chance to understand and absorb modern Italian culture in a way I know wouldn't have been possible otherwise.  Plain and simple.
  2. Language, which must be separated from the former point because it is so massively important and to me is the central part of living in a homestay.  Some programs require students to have a minimum language skill level when applying, but SLC Florence doesn't require students to know Italian when they arrive.  Despite this, I decided to take two Italian summer courses at Boston University because I was slightly terrified at the idea of being mute.  However, my worries were unnecessary because many people speak at least some English in Florence.  Ironically, this has become more of a problem as I've lived here because it can discourage us from speaking Italian...
  3. Coziness.  Maybe it's just me, but I love the natural warmth in a family home, a motherly/grandmotherly figure hustling and bustling around the house, and hearing "Pronto!" when dinner's ready.  Before coming to Florence I was nervous about being homesick for the first couple months, and even though I do miss my family, it has definitely been easier adjusting to a home environment in comparison to the blank and slightly ominous quality of a new dorm room.

Here's a bit about my homestay experience...

  • My host mother's name is Alessandra, or Sandra as I call her.  She's in her mid-sixties, which is a very typical age for people to have study abroad students because they're retired.  Sandra was a High School classics/literature teacher, but now she mainly babysits her granddaughter Olivia.  Sandra has two daughters, Valentina (mid-thirties) and Valeria (thirty).  Sandra, Valeria, and I live in the apartment, which has three bedrooms, two baths, living room, dining area, kitchen, and storage space.  
  • Olivia, Valentina's daughter, is a little over one and in the adorable, wobbly, pick-everything-up phase.  I get to see her a couple times a week and I think she's starting to recognize me.  Her favorite phrases include "NONDO NONDO NONDO," "questo," and "ciao!"
  • Nondo, mentioned above, is the dog.  He's an interesting little fella because he's a little sweet and sour depending on his mood.  Sometimes he'll go limp on his back wanting me to rub his stomach, and then bark at me when I leave the apartment.  Honestly, why would a dog bark when a person leaves?!  I've become accustomed to shutting the hallway door, which separates the bedrooms from the living room, so he won't try to bite me when I'm walking out the door.  My conclusions on Nondo: he's adorable and he's crazy, so like the signs says, "Proceed with CAUTION."

* I'll try to snap some pictures of everyone soon, but here's a preview...

Nondo. The picture makes him look smaller than he is.
A view of my room from the door

A different angle of my 

This is the main bathroom.  I love this huge tiled mirror!
View of the shower and outside hallway.
The hallway from the bathroom to the living room,
with Nondo in his usual spot outside my room in the afternoon.
Living room.

Dining room. Sandra always sits on the far left end.

A view of the kitchen with the washing machine (no dryer).
Another view of Nondo.


Every host family is different, but that's part of the excitement!  Our experience of the time we're studying abroad is as much influenced by our home life as the time we spend at school.  I love coming to school in the morning and hearing what people had for dinner the night before, or what kind of conversation they had in Italian with their host mother, or even the realization that our host moms' watch the same awful TV shows at dinner (at my house we watch an Italian soap opera called "Un Posto Al Sole" every weekday at 8:30).  Whatever story we have to tell each day, it's encouraging to know in the back of our minds how much we're absorbing each day just by eating at the dinner table.






Monday, September 24, 2012

Let's Talk About Italian Food


Dinner in Montecarlo
This is the food post.  As promised, I have taken pictures and acute mental notes of what I've consumed since arriving in Europe. So, here goes...

Buon Giorno Olio, Arrivederci Burro!



Of course I had airplane food and some airport snacks during my travels, but I wanted to document this particular pre-packaged Butter Brezel.  Instead of the typical animal crackers or corn chips given on US flights, when you're going from Zurich to Florence, they serve a rather large, braided soft-pretzel with a huge slab of butter in the middle.  At first I thought it was cheese it was so large, but alas it was a healthy chunk of butter so large Julia Child would be proud.  Most Italians use olive oil instead of butter (this substitution could account for their generally non-obese physiques), so in my mind this butter-filled snack was a last hurrah(!) during my transition from the buttery world I knew, to one slicked with olive oil.

CAFFÈ!

                                  

I don't really drink coffee on a regular basis unless its provided with our SLC Florence meals or I'm desperate for a little pick-me-up in the afternoon.  The typical coffee drink in Italy is espresso.  If you order "un caffè, per favore," you'll get an espresso in a teeny tiny cup, like shown above.  I can't really handle the strength of espresso, so when I can choose I usually get a caffè latte or cappuccino, which is the cup on the right with the pretty foam detailing.  On a side note, the packaging of sugar in Italy is really interesting.  The picture in the center shows a coconut wearing a straw cowboy hat.  Um, what?

FRUTTA!

Italian cornflakes, pre-toasted toast with strawberry jam, plum, pear, coffee, and blood orange juice.

This was my typical breakfast in Pescia, pocketing one of the fruits for later because we didn't get any snacks.  Cereal, fruit and tea are my usual morning meal, so not much has changed in that department since my arrival in Italy.


Fruit is also a common dessert here in Italy.  
This particular bowl had strawberries, peach, kiwi, and I think some kind of melon.







*Fun fact!  On the walk to Collodi, mentioned in my previous post, we came across a fig tree.  I had a bite and it was pretty delicious.
L'ANTIPASTO!


Chicken liver pate, mushrooms, and bruschetta.  This was our l'antipasto in Castelvecchio.  I was a little skeptical of the former because it looks a bit like cat food in my opinion, 
but it was surprisingly tasty. 

*One dish I did not document at this particular meal was a 
vegetable and mayonnaise salad, which reminded me of 
those awful recipes one finds in a 1960's cookbook.  
Thankfully, that has been the only dish I couldn't finish.


These were by far one of the best and most interesting things I've eaten thus far.  They were triangular shaped toasts with some kind of creamy, cheesy something, and then either a slice of lime or red pepper to top them off.  The combination of textures and flavors harmoniously clashed (if you didn't understand that, you've never tasted something this awesome).  Crunchy, salty, tangy, yum.


Some grilled vegetables to start a meal in Collodi.
Red pepper, cabbage, eggplant, zucchini, and a slice
of grilled bread with olive oil.

INSALATA!

 I haven't had too many chances to have salad other than as a small side dish,          but last weekend I decided to order a salad (shown on the left) while the SLC Florence crew were treated to lunch after visiting       the Palazzo Vecchio.  We went to a very cute restaurant called Zà-Zà in the Piazza del Mercato Centrale.  Greens with pear, pecorino, prosciutto, and a housemade spicy vinaigrette.

ZUPPE!

                                                                                 Like salad, I haven't had much soup yet either.  Hopefully when the weather turns it'll seem more appealing to have this kind of hearty soup.  The picture on the right is a minestrone we had in Pescia.  Even though it was still 75-80 degrees, the sky was overcast, which somehow made this combination of pasta, peas, beans, carrots, onions, and potatoes very welcome.  If I was home I probably would have added some hot sauce, but alas...

VERDURE!


As one can plainly see, vegetables in the Italian can come at the beginning, middle, still middle, and later parts of the meal (correct/more acceptable terms: aperitivo, l'antipasto, il contorno, il primo piatto, il secondo piatto).  The picture above is "il contorno," or a side dish, of rosemary potatoes that accompanied the salad previously shown (matching zebra print plates!).

   
This dish to the left was given to us during our dinner out in Collodi.  We were never given a menu, so I don't actually know         the names of these dishes, but it tasted like a very spruced up version of eggplant parmesan.  I believe the eggplant was grilled, which added a nice flavor to the dish... Much better than the eggplant parmesan I made in the microwave this past summer, although that wasn't terrible if you ever want to try.


PANINI!


In the SLC Florence we are responsible for buying our own lunch, unless we are having some kind of field in which case the school pays, and this is relatively easy because we are in the city center.  There are a ton of really delicious places that I would recommend, but I'm only going to rave about one in particular so this whole post isn't full of panino shops.  

The name of the place is I Due Fratellini, the two little brothers, 
and like the sign says they've been in business for over 130 years.  They have a 
selection of almost 30 different kinds of panini, but you can also make your own 
for a varying additional charge, but that hardly makes a difference as all but two on the list are only €2.50 (the two that are 3.00 have "truffle creme" on them, which is definitely worth the extra fifty cents).  They serve them in  paper, usually with a napkin if you 
get a messy one, and my favorite part is the bread is always slightly warm.  This
 little shop is right down the street from Piazza della Signoria, so if you're ever in 
the area I definitely recommend it because it's a better deal and better tasting 
than the touristy food shops in that square. 

*Hint: If there is a line of people and people are standing/sitting on the sidewalk 
eating sandwiches and drinking from tiny wine glasses, 
that's probably where the good stuff is.

PASTA!



Pasta is a staple in Italy, everybody knows it, there are no secrets to this fact.  We were treated to many different kinds of pasta during orientation, and since being at my home-stay it is probably the main thing I eat other than my regular panino at lunch.  On the right is a dish we had in Castelvecchio, ravioli stuffed with ricotta (I think) and sage with a cream sauce.

                                                                          I'm going to categorize this next dish under pasta even though I don't entirely know what it was.  Here's my best guess - a crȇpe stuffed with different kinds of cheese and zucchini, some sauce in and on, melted cheese on top.  I could had had another helping of this it was so good.  The outer layer was slightly browned and on the verge of being crunchy, and this combined with the melting cheese was almost too much to handle.


DOLCE!(!)



Dessert.  Anybody who knows me, knows how much I love dessert.  If I go out to eat I almost always want to get dessert even if I'm full from the main dish.  Since coming to Italy, nothing has changed in that department, and if possible has gotten worse.  The meals in Italy are spread out over the day and with my home-stay I usually have dinner around 8:30,  so what better way to tide myself over than with a small cup of gelato (or a large one) in the mid-afternoon?  The above picture of gelato was our dessert in Castelvecchio, which had strawberries, blueberries, and blackberries to go with it.

This masterpiece of a dessert was served 
to us in Montecarlo.  The outside shell was 
a type of cookie/wafer that had a very pretty imprinted detail that I couldn't quite get on my camera.  It tasted similar to those wafer cookies people have at holiday parties, know what I mean?  Inside was some kind of clotted cream/ricotta/custard
something-or-other that was creamy and deliciously paired with berries that I believe were some kind of current.  As one can probably imagine, I ate the whole thing.





This was a dessert that a friend ordered, but it was just so pretty that I couldn't resist taking a picture.  The waiter told us it was an apple tart, but it also had a powerful molasses flavor, which made it taste somewhat like pecan pie.




Note: Not the typical size,
camera adds ten pounds of
gelato. *Cone not included
The above picture is Vivoli, a gelato shop near Santa Croce, and from what I can tell the best gelato in Firenze.  I've seen the place mentioned in tour guide books and websites, our Italian friend Giovanni took us here and my Signora Sandra told me about it.  All signs are pointing to YES!  Now, understandably the prices are a little higher than other gelato shops, but that is the price for getting the best stuff in town.  I have yet to order a fruit flavor of gelato, but hope I will make myself soon because I hear they're fantastic.  Usually I go in with the intention of getting a fruit flavor and then going for my usual preference for nut flavors, like pistacchio, or chocolate hazelnut (I even tried a pine nut flavor the other day).  Like my mother says, I'm a nut, I just can't help it.  Unlike some ice creams in the States, pretty much anything you order at this kind of place will hit the spot.
                                                            - CAB